If you are raising goats, or plan to, you probably know they can be expensive. After the initial cost to acquire the goats, as well as equipment and supplies needed, there will be ongoing expenses for feed—including hay, minerals, and possibly grain.
When I started with goats more than 25 years ago, the price for good quality local grass hay was only about $2 a bale. Alfalfa used to be more expensive than that but, at least where I live, the cost of some grass hay has caught up to it—reaching as much as $30 for a bale. In addition, the quality is hit or miss. It’s frustrating to be shelling out money for something the goats refuse to eat. If I had to feed more than the four goats I have now, I would soon go bankrupt.
On occasion I can still buy reasonably priced hay in the field to load and transport in my little pickup truck. That takes a strong back as well as a vehicle that can carry more than a bale or two. (Those of you who transport goats in a sedan know what I’m talking about.)
What about growing your own hay or alfalfa (a legume), either as a supplement to what you purchase or as the mainstay for your goats? This is a good alternative for those who have the necessary acreage and equipment.
Growing small patches of alfalfa
Those with only an acre or less can grow small patches of alfalfa to feed goats, either fresh or dried. It makes a great supplement because the protein content is higher than that of hay. Even those with minimal equipment can do this.
Start with weed-free soil that has plenty of nitrogen. Soil can be tested through a local Extension office or with a reasonably-priced testing kit from Amazon or a home improvement retailer. If you are starting with poor soil, first enrich it by tilling or shoveling in coffee grounds, bone meal, or even homemade compost (see sidebar). This can be done with a hoe or a rotary tiller, if you have one.
If you are planting a larger area, use stakes and string to mark out planned rows. Create the rows with a hoe or shovel, keeping in mind the ideal placement for good drainage and sun exposure. Add seeds and rake into the soil. Plant them only ½ inch deep to ensure germination and water them well.
For the first 10 days, water three times a day for 10 minutes each time (unless you have rain). Decrease the time, if needed, to avoid waterlogging. After 10 days, water for 20 minutes once a day.
Fertilize monthly. If using a liquid concentrate, spray both the ground and the plants. In addition, use a non-toxic pest repellent—or more frequently if the plants are infested. (See below regarding pests.) It’s possible to find fertilizer and pesticides that can be mixed and then sprayed, saving a step. Weed your plot as needed, monitor for pests, and address the problem immediately.
Sixty to ninety days later, you will have a first cutting of green alfalfa that can be harvested. Do not wait until it flowers, because the nutritional content will start to decrease at that point. This is because the plants start putting their energy into producing seeds, rather than growing. Subsequent cuttings will grow faster and may be ready in 30 to 40 days.
If you are growing small patches, the alfalfa can be cut and given directly to goats to supplement their hay. Make sure not to overfeed it at first, especially if they are not used to fresh grass.
For larger patches, cut with a scythe one to two inches from the roots. Dry the cut alfalfa for two or three weeks in the sun, turning it occasionally. Cover if it is windy or rainy. Store the finished product in a dry location with low humidity.
Growing a larger crop
Those with plenty of acreage and access to necessary equipment can substantially reduce, if not eliminate, their hay bill by growing their own hay or alfalfa. I talked to Ana Skemp of Deep Roots Community Farm in LaCrosse, Wisconsin, about growing a larger crop. Her family partners with another family farm, devoting about 40 of their 1000 acres to growing certified grass hay and alfalfa. They rotate it with corn and soybeans, to help ensure that the soil is healthy. In a good year, they get up to three cuttings.
Because their livestock have access to grazing and browsing land, they usually only need to feed the harvest in the winter. They grow certified organic alfalfa, grass/alfalfa mix, and perennial pasture grass.
The biggest difference between growing a small patch versus acres is the need for specialized (and expensive) equipment, as well as the labor. I asked Ana about what equipment they have on their farm, and they have most of that listed below. Her husband was fortunate to find an old baler at auction for a great price, rather than having to buy new. Before that, they had a neighbor do it and split the hay 50/50.
She noted that having both a round and square baler is helpful. In addition, having someone on the farm who is mechanical is a must, so they can repair any equipment that breaks down.
Equipment and implements for growing and harvesting hay can include:
Tractor. A tractor is essential for all aspects of large-scale hay production. Along with attachments, it is used for plowing, disking, planting, mowing, raking, baling, and hauling hay.
Plow: Plowing soil prior to planting helps to aerate it and burying other unwanted vegetation, such as weeds. Disc harrow: After plowing, discing breaks up dirt clods, removes weeds, and smooths the soil surface.Seeder: The name of this equipment speaks for itself.
Sickle bar or disc mower: These are used for mowing hay. The disc mower is faster, but works best with larger tractors that have hydraulics.
Tedder: A tedder lifts hay off the ground Hay Rake: Like hand raking, these machines flip the hay for drying and it into windrows, so it can be picked up by the baler.
Baler: Balers for round or square bales are available.
Bale wrapper: Used to wrap round bales to store outdoors.
Trailer: Used to haul the bales to storage.
Planting and growing.
As with smaller crops, make sure the starting soil is healthy and weed-free. Plow the area to be used, then use the disc harrow. (If the area was used previously to grow hay, the land can be disked and not plowed.) Seeds can be planted by hand (labor intensive), with a hand broadcaster, or, using a tractor with a grain drill machine.
Depending on your locale, irrigation may or may not be required. In normally dry or drought-stricken areas, irrigating your hay or alfalfa crop can make a huge difference in yield.
Harvesting.
In addition to problems with pests and maturity of the crop, the biggest factor in knowing when to harvest is the weather—which also depends on where you are located. In the Pacific Northwest, the rain has become unpredictable and can happen at any time of the year. Aim for a dry period of at least two weeks to harvest.
Between rain and drought, farmers sometimes get only one or two cuttings of hay. Three cuttings in a year is ideal, because each cutting of hay becomes more nutritious. Check with your local extension office to learn more about growing and harvesting hay in your locale.
Drying.
Hay must be dried in the field for at least two or three days before being baled. This helps prevent mold from growing on it. It is initially left on the ground where it was cut and then a few days later it is put into rows to continue drying and to prepare for baling.
Baling.
Square bales usually range from 40–50 lbs to 150 lbs. Round bales can weigh ten times as much. The obvious advantage to the smaller, lighter square bales is that they are easier for most people to handle, load, and stack them. The disadvantage is that they take more work in the long run. Round bales and heavier square bales require equipment, but one person with a tractor and trailer can handle them. Round bales are also denser and more resistant to moisture due to their shape.
For small square bales, a moisture content of around 20 percent or less is fine, but for large square and round bales, the moisture content will need to be lower—as little as 15 percent. A hay moisture meter can be purchased to give you an accurate measurement. This is an important step not only because it will help ensure that no mold grows, but because bales with too much moisture can spontaneously combust.
Storage.
Store hay in a dry area to prevent mold. This can be a shed, barn, or greenhouse. As an alternative, round bales are often wrapped in plastic film or tarped to keep out moisture and stored outdoors, but need to rest for a few days first. The more tightly baled they are, the better they are able to keep moisture out.
Additional concerns
Pests. The two most problematic pests that affect alfalfa are blister beetles and weevils. Alfalfa weevils lay eggs in the spring (or in the fall if they overwinter) and after hatching eat the leaves and stems. Baling the hay early will kill them.
Blister beetles excrete a chemical called cantharidin, which is toxic and harmful to goats that eat them. They prefer flowering plants, so baling early can help. Regularly examine the alfalfa and keep weeds down around the plot, especially the borders. If you find alfalfa with these beetles, burn it.
Hay has more insect pests, including grasshoppers, leaf hoppers, and crickets; white grubs; fire ants; two-lined spittlebugs; and armyworms. Of these, fall armyworms (a caterpillar) cause the most damages, with the ability to decimate a crop in only a few days. A key to preventing problems is to find the pests early and eradicate them.
Other ways to manage these pests include using natural predators, rotating crops and keeping soil healthy, and controlling weeds and tall grass. Pesticides should be the last choice for managing them. If you do choose to use a pesticide, be aware of effects on the environment.
Testing. To learn about the nutritional content of your hay, you will need to have it tested. Contact the National Forage Testing Association (www.foragetesting.org/) or your local Extension office to find out where you can get hay tested.
References:
J. Keeler Johnson. “How to Grow Quality Hay.” Hobby Farms. www.hobbyfarms.com/how-to-grow-hay/
Sue Ferreri (co-author). 2023. How to Grow Hay. www.wikihow.com/Grow-Hay.
Terry Grossman. 1975. A Guide to Growing, Harvesting and Baling Hay. Mother Earth News. www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/growing-harvesting-baling-hay-zmaz75jazgoe/
Pat Goodwin. 2015. “Buyers Guide to Hay Equipment.” Iowa State University Extension and Outreach, Small Farm Sustainability. www.extension.iastate.edu/smallfarms/buyers-guide-hay-equipment
The Hay Manager. “Square vs. Round Bales.” www.thehaymanager.com/hay-saving-hay-management-round-bale-hay-feeders/square_vs_round_hay_bales/.
Interview with Ana Skemp. 2024.
Cheryl K. Smith has raised mini dairy goats in the Coast Range of Oregon since 1998. She is the owner of karmadillo Press, and author of Raising Goats for Dummies, Goat Health Care, Goat Midwifery, and Shed Boy, the first in a series of cozy mysteries set on a goat farm. www.goathealthcare.com
Homemade Goat Manure Compost
- Collect manure from the barn with a shovel or pitchfork and put it in a pile or a compost bin. In addition to the wasted hay or straw bedding included with it when you muck, add grass clippings or other organic material. (If you will be handling the manure, wear gloves.)
- Keep the pile moist, watering—but not too much—if it starts to dry out. For best results, monitor the temperature and maintain at 140-160°F (60-70°C) to ensure that weeds and pathogens are killed.
- Turn the pile regularly with a pitchfork. This aerates it and accelerates the decomposition process.
- When the pile looks and smells like dirt, it’s ready to use. Make sure to mix it well with the soil when fertilizing.
